Transylvanian Stew Anyone?

Well, yesterday I took a flight from Istanbul to Bucharest, Romania.  It is my least favorite city ever.  EVER.  I was contemplating just staying in my hotel room, when a friend suggested that I go and check it out, that there had to be more to see in the city than the Peasant Museum.  That friend was WRONG.  The architecture is blah.  The one building that I may have wanted to see (the opera house) was being remodeled and the top of it looked like maybe it’d been hit by a WMD.

After an hour I returned to the hotel to have some dinner and do some laundry.  In the morning I got up to head of to the town of Brasov (pronounced Bra-shof) at the base of the Carpathian Mountains.  Guess what book takes place in the Carpathians?  DRACULA!  Guess what one of my four (yes four) favorite books is? Bram Stoker’s Dracula.   I went to the train station and went about trying to purchase a ticket and figure out the exact train schedule.  The line was ridiculously slow so I befriended an elderly woman (who spoke no English and I speak no Romanian) as we both just made exasperated faces about the line situation.  She became my best friend when she heard me say I was going Brasov because she was going there too.

I got on the right train, although needed some help with my luggage which is just packed all sorts of wrong and weighs more than my AMAZING 5 ¾ year old nephew Trey.  I took a brief nap and then read some during the 2 ½ hour ride and managed to get off at the right train station despite a lack of announcements or signage telling me where I was.  As I struggled to get my luggage down the stairs, many men walked by and did nothing (which is fine because I packed my own luggage, I should be able to carry it).  Then, out of no where two little old ladies offered to help me, I said no thank you and proceeded to make a mental list of things in the suitcase I need to ditch (this is the number one reason I never buy gifts).

Now, if I had been able to see Mt. Tampa I would have known I was in Brasov because there is a HUGE sign on the mountain that reads "Brasov" a la the sign in Hollywood.  Hmmm... guess where Kristen Stewart was seen cheating on R-Pat?  NEAR THE HOLLYWOOD SIGN, and they're in a movie series (worst ever made) about VAMPIRES... hmmmmm....

I made it to the hostel, which appears to be full of British and Australian men who are quite enthusiastic about the Olympics.   I started unpacking so I could figure out what to get rid off  (10 weeks of conditioner can now be consolidated to a smaller bottle, etc).  Eventually I went to dinner at Sergiana where I had Transylvanian Stew (sausage, pork neck in a cream and carrot sauce) with polenta.  It was quite delicious!

Not sure what the plan is for tomorrow.  Probably just going to explore (maybe hike the mountain that the town sits at the base of?) and reread Dracula!!!!!

I was in Europe, then Asia, then Europe again…

I have money again!!!  Thanks mom and dad!!  However, unlike yesterday, everything I did today actually accepted credit cards…..

This morning I headed off to a Turkish bath house.   The one I went to was called Çemberlitas Hamami.    The building was designed/constructed in the late 1500’s by Sinan who is considered to be one of the greatest architects of the Ottoman.  It was such a relaxing experience... there should be more massages in life!

After that I headed to the Grand Bazaar to see what that was all about.  It is one of the oldest and largest covered bazaars.  SENSORY OVERLOAD!  Pick something you want… they have it!!  Lots of “it.”  I left with nothing because I need nothing…

Next off to the Egyptian Spice Market!!  The building smelled delicious!  I ended up buying tons of apple tea and tons of Turkish saffron (yum yum yum!).  This means I get to infuse a ton of olive oil when I get home (more yum yum yum), oooh, and paella, I haven’t made paella in awhile!  The man at the spice market decided I was Spanish, which was GREAT!!  He didn’t try to push me into buying more stuff (because Spain’s economy ain’t so hot!).

After the spice market I headed down to the docks for a two hour cruise along the Bosphorous, which connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara, thus making it a pretty important trade route.  The boat crisscrossed between the Asian and European side (although Izmir is in Asia… So I already covered that). The weather was great so the views we quite lovely.  When we docked I went to one of the seafood restaurants under the bridge (sounds sketchy, but it’s not) that connects old a new Istanbul.  I had kalamari and it was delicious!

BTW, in case I left this out, Ramadan is currently being observed by Muslims in Turkey (and then rest of the world). No eating from sunrise to sunset.  This tends to make street sales people quite angry and aggressive come midday.  Also, did I mention how much I LOVE Islamic culture?  It’s one of my favorite units to teach (I also love teaching religion)  and it has been so amazing to be in Muslim country and see so many beautiful mosques.  It’s also been interesting to see the variety of head/body coverings that women choose to wear.

I also realize that I really like traveling solo and staying in hostels.  It’s such a great way to meet a variety of people from all over the world.

I did a little shopping after that and then headed back to the hostel to repack for my flight to Bucharest, Romania tomorrow!!!

Istanbul was Constantinople…

      

(I've completely given up all conventions of grammar and spelling... deal with it.)

So, my last day in Izmir was focused on getting Citibank to send me money.  They didn’t, their customer service in the US was horrible (and you should have seen the look of shock from the people at the Citibank in Izmir over the incompetence they witnessed).   I will speak of Izmir later (once the trauma wears off).

Saturday morning I got in a cab with 49 Turkish Lira to head to the airport.  I got on the plane and this is why I LOVE Turkish Airlines:  it was an hour-long flight and they served a full meal (they did this a couple of days earlier on BOTH my flights).  The hostel I’m staying at in Istanbul was able to send a car to pick me up so I didn’t need cash.  When I got to the hostel the guy at the front desk loaned my 200 TL since I had no money… so nice!! 

The hostel is great (Agora in Sultanahment, Istanbul)!  It’s super clean, they have a great breakfast and a fabulous view of the water on their rooftop.  I’m staying in an 8 person dorm and it’s only $25/night.  They also have a handmade brochure that tells you where the sites are and what parts of the area to avoid or be careful in.

So yesterday after I got settled in I went for a walk and headed into the Blue Mosque.  It’s nicknamed the Blue Mosque because of all the blue tiles on the inside.  I had to be given a skirt because I was in shorts, and a scarf to cover my shoulders.  I also have to take my shoes off.  The building inside was absolutely beautiful!!  What an amazing feat of architecture!!  After that I wandered around for a bit, contemplated buying a sword, but then realized I had no money (and no need for a sword).

I went to bed and e-mailed my parents to have them send me moneyJ

This morning I headed out for a bus tour of Istanbul.  It was about 1 ½ hours and then I went to Dolmabache Palace.  I could tell you a lot about it… but, I kind of don’t want to.  I will tell you that Ataturk died here and that they won’t let you take any pictures of the inside…. Booooooo.   I did some more walking around then ended up back at the hostel to sit on the rooftop and write my blog while the sun sets over the Bosphorous!

Hopefully when I wake up tomorrow Western Union will have some cash so I can head of to Romania on Tuesday!!!

Izmir? Why'd You Go To Izmir?

(No pics b/c I’m tired again and my computer isn’t loading the pics)

Wednesday evening I arrived in Izmir, Turkey (map: http://www.pas.rochester.edu/~yildirim/turkey_general.htm) after a flight through Istanbul.  No luggage was lost (knock on wood).

I got in a cab and headed to my hotel in Konak.  Oh, wait, you may be wondering why I’m here.  My parents lived here for about a year so I decided to see where they lived!

I got in late so I just had dinner at the hotel and then went for a walk along the harbor.  I got to bed at a reasonable time and kind of got some sleep (my body has been conditioned to sleep in transit and then stay awake all night… bad).

I woke up this morning and had a delicious breakfast at the hotel and then let the adventure to the ancient site of Ephesus begin… oh, and what an adventure it was:

The hotel told me I could take the metro to the bus station and catch a bus.  I checked out the metro map and got into the station… only to find there are ZERO subway maps down there.  I then took it a few stops and got off to ask directions.  I was then directed by a security guy (oh, did I mention that they have wands to pat everyone down before you get on the train?) and he speaks no English and sends me to the buses below.  I go to the ticket window and show the man where I want to go; he points me to a local bus so I get on.  I’m on the bus for a while and am looking for a bus terminal, don’t see one.  Then we hit what looks like an industrial center and there are only men going to work in factories on the bus.  I ask a man if I’m going to the right place and I’ve clearly gone past it.  Then… all 20 men on the bus discuss how to get me to where I need to go (all in Turkish because not a one of them knows English).  They all get me out at the next stop and some of them hail a bus and make it stop in the middle of the road to let me on.  They also tell the driver where I need to go so he made sure I got off at the bus station.

Then I had to locate a dolmus (small mini bus) to take me to the town of Selcuk.  Navigated that with success and hopped on the dolmus.  I would have loved to watch the scenery go by on the hour-long drive, but once again, conditioned to sleep in transit.  I awoke at Selcuk, checked out the Ephesus Museum and then hopped aboard another dolmus to Ephesus (5km away).  The museum was so so.  Not labeled well at all.

The site was amazing (but still not as great as Delphi…) !!  I had done some research on the site in order to give myself some background knowledge so that was pretty helpful.  The site ( http://www.ephesus.us/ephesus/ephesus.htm ) was mainly excavated by the Austrians and they were out doing some digging today. The site was pretty huge so I was there for about 3 ½ hours.  A large chunk of what you can see at the main site is Roman, but they have found evidence dating back to the Bronze Age.  I took a walk down the Arcadiance, which originally went from the theater directly to the sea (the harbor has since filled in as a result of silt deposits).  Now, I walked all around the site, following the path and ended up on the side closest to what would have been a harbor.  There we ZERO signs, ropes or guards telling me I couldn’t walk on it.  It was weird that no one else was on it, but oh well.  After a little over a quarter of a mile I see the rope, and a sign… oops… they should have had one at the other end!

On the way home I once again slept and then when I arrived at the bus station I took a cab to my hotel.  Time for bed.

"I wish I'd done something else..."

So, I’m going to write two blogs today, one from yesterday and one since I arrived in Turkey last night, hope it all makes sense.

I’ve only ever made a handful of bad decisions (or “mistakes”) in my life.  I know, that sounds ridiculous, but it’s true.  I don’t actually believe mistakes exist.  I’ve never had a desire to erase something I’ve done and do it differently.  If I didn’t like the outcome of something I take what I’ve learned and apply that knowledge to similar situations in the future.  I never, ever regret doing something.  Why?

Well, each decision I have made has led me to where I am now.  It has led me to meet the people that currently make up my world (okay, maybe not my relatives…).  Looking at my friends I’ve made since adulthood and the people that have had the most impact on me (including my students) I can explain the major decision that I made in my life that led me to all of you.  Choosing JMU was the first once, then turning down UCONN for graduate school in order to work for the Close Up Foundation, which led to stumbling into LBLP, which led to…. Anyway here’s where I’m going with this:

Yesterday as everyone from the ASCSA Summer Session II was crying their eyes out and saying goodbye (which had started the evening before), I said to myself, “Wow, I wish I had done this program when I was younger.”  IMMEDIATELY I caught myself.  There is no way I wish I had done this at any other point in time.  While the program was absolutely fabulous it was the people that I had the chance to meet that really made the difference.  From distinguished professors, peers who can carry on intelligent conversations one second and then start laughing about ridiculous things the next second, people who ensured I had no sleep, and more people who made me laugh each day, they are what made this program for me and I am so grateful to have added new members to my chosen family of friends.

At midnight on Tuesday the group decided to do one last hike up Mt. Lykavittos (which is how we started) and the view was spectacular.  The next morning as we began saying our goodbyes the waterworks began.  I can’t really explain what happened between all of us over the past six weeks, nor could I do it justice such as others have been able to do.  Three of us split the cab to the airport yesterday and the tears continued.  There were clouds over Athens (which there had not been the whole 6 weeks), so we decided Zeus was sad to see us go.

I know I have made some lifelong friends and I am really grateful to have had the opportunity to make the decision to spend my summer the way I did.  

Yamas to excellent decision making.

Huh, my computer only wants to be in Greek...

Guess what... no pictures again.  Way too tired.
Last time I wrote it was my last night in Thessalaniki.  The whole group went out to dinner and had a great time.  The next morning we got on the bus and headed to Kalambaka… now, before I continue, I need to let you know that a few years ago I decided I HAD to visit as many James Bond film locations as I could.  “Why?” you ask?  Well why not?!?!  Luckily this summer I get to cross four locations off my list (I’ll discuss my plans to get to certain space related “Moonraker” locations later).
Luckily the drive to Kalambaka was long so I got a couple hours of sleep.  Along the way we stopped in Pella and went to the alleged tomb of Philip II (long story…).  We also went to the site of Pella saw some great floor mosaics.
Finally, Kalambaka.  Meteora, located outside of Kalambaka, was in “For Your Eyes Only.”  It consists of huge cliffs with monasteries scattered all over them.  Had the chance to watch the sunrise over the cliffs, which was pretty cool.  We boarded the bus and went to one of the monasteries where we had a nun explain some of the wall paintings (it involved a man being flayed…).
After Meteora we hopped back on the bus for a 5-6 bus ride back to Athens.  Along the way we stopped at two battle sites.  One was Pharsalus, which involved a battle between Julius Caesar and Pompey.  I can’t recall the name of the other battle site, mainly because I’m not a fan of military history (sorry Grandpa).
We arrived back in Athens Friday night and that’s where we’ve been the past few days. Saturday morning we headed to Heinrich Schliemann’s old home (he excavated the city of Troy) and saw his extensive coin collection.  Then some of us did a little shopping.  In the afternoon we headed to Kerameikos, but it was closed.  Instead we talked about the site including a Spartan gravesite (which is odd since Kerameikos is in Athens).
Sunday we headed out on a ferry to the island of Aegina to see some sites and we had the chance for another (and out last) beach day.
This morning (Monday… right), we headed to a marble workshop and the Stadium in Athens.  After that we went to the first cemetery of modern day Athens.  To end our day we watched an amazing performance by some of the finest actors I’d seen in awhile.
Wednesday I head for Izmir, Turkey to move on to my next adventure!!

Over half way done with the trip

(No pictures today because I'm tired) 

Wow... I only have one month left.  Time if flying!! 

Sunday was officially cave and optional hiking day.  We hiked up to a Neolithic cave (Korykaian) and then headed out on a seven-mile hike (well, for most of us involved it was a seven mile hike… for others it was more like the “three hour tour” foreshadowing the fate of those on the Minnow).  The hike was great and the weather was beautiful as we hiked.

After that we headed to the town of Distomo.  Here, on June 10^th, 1944, the German military brutally murdered almost the entire village because they believed they were helping Greek rebels.  They have a memorial to remember the people that were murdered and a museum as well where they had photos of those killed.  It was pretty overwhelming and a reminder about how many lives were destroyed by the Germans leading up to and during WWII.

The next stop was a monastery.

The next morning we left Arachova and headed north toward Thermopalye.  For those people that disappoint me, you may have heard of Thermopalye from viewing a little movie based on a graphic novel titled “The 300.”  Some of you may remember it was about some Spartans fighting Persians in a scenario that seemed more like a battle for Middle Earth as opposed to a battle to push out the Persians.  Others of you may remember it as a movie that starred Gerard Butler’s abs.  Now, if you’re one of my students, you’d better know darn well that I refuse to see the movie and that none of the aforementioned scenes are accurate.  Please feel free to do some non-Wikipedia related research on the battle.

After that we headed for lunch and there was a beach involved…. Then, some Christian church ruins and back on the bus through Volos up through the mountains to the town of Makrynitsa.  Now, if you think you could never imagine a place like this quaint village, you’re wrong.  Have you seen Beauty and the Beast?  The clip below gives you a taste of the place we stayed in.  However, instead of Belle running through the town singing, picture grown men doing it (in attempts to be ridiculous).  That evening the whole group had a great dinner and watched some dogs fight in the plaza.

The next day we hopped on the bus for a bit of a drive up to Thessaloniki.   First we stopped at the Volos museum.  The displays set up here were fabulous and they had an example of the stratigraphy we would see at the next site.  We also saw some reconstructions of Neolithic houses.  We then stopped at the Neolithic sites of Dimini and Selsko where the Elusive Parat spoke to us about the mysteries and marvels of Neolithic Greece.  After that we boarded the bus again (it was a great nap day) and had lunch at a “truck stop” in a chain restaurant called “Goodys”…the place is kind of disturbing.  Then we drove past Mt. Olympus (home to the Olympians) and went to the site of Dion (not to be confused with either Celine or Warwick).  We couldn’t get into the site but had the chance to see the museum, which had some great artifacts.

Back on the bus to Thessaloniki.

Today we started the morning on a nice stroll along the water to the White Tower.  Then we hit up the Thessaloniki Museum where and walked to the Arch of Galerius.

Lunch…. Sugar fest!!  Frappe (extra sugar) and a nutella crepe (if you work with me or have been one of my students, you know what happens with even the tiniest amount of caffeine.

In the afternoon we went to the Byzantine Museum, which had some fabulous mosaics and a few illuminated manuscripts.  They also had some Madonna and Child images, which, as some know, usually weird me out because of the way they depict “baby” Jesus.  After that we walked around town and looked at some Byzantine basilicas (I heart Byzantine basilicas).

Tomorrow we head out of Thessaloniki and on to Kalambaka.